Argentina 2018

On our way to Cafayate we drive through the Quebrada de Las Conchas - the Gorge of Shells. Once seabed, this area was subjected to cataclysmic tectonic and geological changes around 250 million years ago. The multitude of different minerals present gave the gorge its many hues as they oxidized in the earth's nascent atmosphere. Among the rich colours are thin veins of white - these are fossilised shells from the gorge's prior submarine position, and the source of its name. Exiting the gorge we arrive in Cafayate. It's hot and dry, the perfect location for high altitude wine production. As we approach the town we're surrounded by rows and rows of grapevines. This area is famous for the sweet, dry white wine torrontés. We taste two varieties at a local vineyard, as well as a local malbec. Previously the area only produced white wine; however, through technology and refinement, the famous Argentinian malbec is now also produced here. We eat lunch outside in...

We head away from Salta on a humid grey morning - we're going out to explore the Andes. Quickly we leave the city behind. Initially we follow the Train to the Clouds railway line. Built originally for mining, to link Argentina and Chile, it now operates sporadically as a tourist train - the third highest in the world. As we climb higher the landscape changes: cactuses replace trees, and eventually only small, stunted clumps of grasses scatter the dry, rocky landscape. We also leave the cloud behind and emerge above it into searing sunshine. In places we're reminded of New Zealand's mountain scenery. We reach 4000 meters above sea level and stop to admire the view. A vast landscape with beautiful colors in the rock, glowing in the sunlight - grey, red, yellow, white. As we drive there are almost no other cars; we see no birds up this high. We stop for lunch at San Antonio de Las Cobres. A dusty town seemingly in the middle of nowhere. We feast on a del...

Disembarking the plane from our flight north, we're enveloped in warm tropical air. We've arrived in Puerto Iguazú close to the border with both Paraguay and Brazil, in the North East corner of Argentina. This area is home to the largest remaining expanse of Atlantic tropical rainforest and also Iguazú Falls. Our hotel is close to the town, but feels like we're out in the jungle, with a view from our balcony out over the treetops and down to a stretch of the Rio Iguaçu, the river that separates Brazil and Argentina. For the afternoon we visit a wildlife hospital and sanctuary. We see many creatures from the local jungle - colourful birds, several varieties of monkeys, ocelots and small mammals. Next morning we're on the bus bound for Brazil. The border crossing is swift and efficient: we're stamped out of Argentina, cross the bridge spanning the Rio Iguaçu, and are stamped into Brazil on the other side. The park is well organised, with regular buses ...

Buenos Aires as a city revealed itself to us over several days - in the day and night, work day and weekend, sun and cloud. For our first few days we've been based in Palermo, a residential suburb in the north of the city. There's the essence of urban chic and it sometimes reminds us of parts of Wellington - craft beer, coffee, small boutiques, all housed in renovated buildings with street art filling the gaps. Our hotel is fantastic; each morning starts with a leisurely breakfast of fresh juices, breads, cereal and yogurt, followed by a hot option. We begin our exploration of the area on foot - heading from the narrow, tree-lined streets near our hotel out onto wider roads - some six or more lanes across and full of cars. It's a work day, but many locals seem to be out; every second person has a dog. Our first stop is the Museo Evita. Situated in a large house, this museum celebrates the short life and many achievements of a national hero, revered almost...